Nanga

Moro's experience for Nanga Parbat is a flash of lightning, a spark that struck on the pages of the books that Simone read as a boy, where the extraordinary exploits of mountaineers such as Albert Mummery, Hermann Buhl and Reinhold Messner who had left a trace on that mountain and in some cases, tragically, even life. Over time the spark revived until it became an overwhelming passion, a true love for a majestic peak which, over time, had continued to repel many mountaineers. In the summer of 2003 Moro was finally able to touch the walls firsthand and his attempt to reach the summit failed. But it is by no means the end of the dream, indeed it is only the beginning of a patient courtship, which lasted thirteen years, which the author recounts in this compelling and emotional book. Thirteen years and three winter attempts made up of unforeseen events, surprises, new routes and new roped parties, avalanches and snowstorms, crevasses, ice caves, winds at 200 kilometers per hour and clear skies... But above all made up of climbs taken one step at a time the other, with the tenacity needed not to give up and with constant respect for the mountains, nature and man's limits. «February 26: time expands. By now this was how we perceived it: augmented, surreal, slow. Each of us had become an automaton, focused exclusively on our own pace, our own effort, our own problems. We were above 7800 meters. No one had spoken for a long time, concentrated as we were on putting one step in front of the other, seven to be exact, stopping, looking upwards, in the hope that those seven steps had performed the miracle of bringing the summit closer which instead seemed to remain inexorably distant from us." The courtship ends that day. At 3.37pm Simone Moro - roped with Tamara Lunger, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara - arrives on the summit of Nanga Parbat, fulfilling a thirty-year dream and entering the history of mountaineering.